One side of this opulent restaurant features sleek Mediterranean fare, while the other traffics in contemporary American dishes.. The Scene Where to look, that's the problem--at the frescoes from when Marchand was the dazzling Pompeii Room; the view of Tampa Bay and gently bobbing boats; or at the well-heeled, elegant patrons? The chef further adds to the dilemma with stylish and architectural plate presentations.
The Food The kitchen is usually astute with flavorings and generous with lavish ingredients, but not everything is a smash--seared yellowfin tuna can arrive tired, with hard-to-eat mango-ginger salad. But macadamia-crusted pork medallions are elevated by a swirl of truffle oil amid a currant and butternut squash hash; miso-seared sea bass nestles in a pool of fragrant coconut-curry broth; and long lengths of romaine get a kicky Caesar dressing and plush filets of white anchovy. The dessert highlight: the chocolate cake with an intensely chocolate molten center.