de France

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
The modest decor involves simple, hunter-green walls, linen curtains and brass lamps. There are small tables and booths, along with a tiny bar that serves wine and beer only. The simplicity of the premises provides a comfortable haven in the midst of the small shopping center where the restaurant is tucked between an insurance company office and a tanning parlor.

The Food
Lunch at de France could be escargot Bourguignon with what the menu terms a "small" side salad (really a huge and particularly gorgeous one), French bread, chilled real butter and a drink. Or it could be beautiful crepes stuffed with chicken and mushroom filling and served with the same, crisp, interesting salad. But the tab is $7. That's less than you might pay for fast food, but the two are worlds, universes, apart!

Though you'll be stuffed when you finish the entree, don't forget to try some of their desserts. Mine was a perfect apple tarte tatin, similar to American apple pie, but better. The fruit was tender and deeply spiced, the pastry buttery and flaky, and it was served with a flower of whipped cream and a scoop of premium ice cream.